Phuket: Thailand's most famous island, with a rich history in tin mining. An island lost to overdevelopment, whore houses, package tours and traffic. Twenty years ago, Phuket was... well, who cares what it was 20 years ago? And who cares what cynical journos and travel writers think they know about the island? Clued-up travellers are starting to scratch Phuket from their itineraries because their buddies stayed in Patong and came back with horror stories about how dirty the beach is and how trashy the bars are.
News flash, folks: there's more to Phuket than Patong. Phuket City, despite feeling more like a large village than a city, is the backbone of the island and the capital of the province. From a base in Phuket City, it's possible to see beautiful beaches, captivating culture and the real people of the island. All you need is 24 hours, a thirst for adventure and nerves of steel on the back of a motorcycle.
First up, check into some hip digs that won't break the bank. Digs don't come much hipper than Phuket 346 (346-348 Phuket Rd, 076-256128). For upwards of 1,200 baht a night, you can stay in one of three rooms in a guesthouse that doubles as an art gallery. After a good night's sleep, the fun begins.
To travel around Phuket City, you're going to need some transport. Motorcycle taxis are the easiest way to get around. Forty baht is a fair price for a trip in Phuket City.
Head straight to Kwan Khanon Jeen restaurant on Thung Kha Rd, next to the entrance to Phuket Merlin Hotel. Khanon jeen is about as local a meal as you'll find in Phuket. For the same price as a can of Coke, you can feast on a bowl of rice noodles and curry that tastes so delicious it's almost criminal.
After breakfast, you could follow your guidebook and trundle around the island... or you could ride 20 minutes in a tuk-tuk (about 150 baht) to Laem Hin Pier (north of Phuket City, on the east coast) and catch a longtail boat (15 baht per person) to Coconut Island, where you'll find a tiny community that uses solar panels to generate power. When you arrive, ask a motorcycle-taxi rider to take you to Yao Beach (15 baht per person). You'll need to take down the cellphone number of the rider to take you back to the pier when you're done at the beach - it's that deserted. Take a picnic for lunch because there are no restaurants or 7-Elevens on the island.
After a day at the beach, travel back to the mainland. Catch the sun setting beyond the backdrop of the city at the top of Khao Rang hill. It's easy to get to and motorcycle-taxi drivers know the spot as "Khao Rang viewpoint". As the night begins, catch a ride down to Chumphon Rd, where you'll find the perfect spot for dinner at Fine Day (www.fineday-phuket.com). This is the place the local kids hang out, eat and drink until about midnight.
For after-dinner activities, you have a wealth of options. You'll see references to Timber Hut and KorTorMor in your guidebook, but these places have lost their shine thanks to their own popularity.
For something a bit more local and with a lot more space, check out Music Matters (off Surin Circle, past T2 and turn right) for some pre-club drinks. It's a tiny jazz bar hidden out of the way. The owner, Jeff, is a laidback dude who likes to chill and play his music. A bunch of Jeff's friends form a makeshift band some nights.
Once you've had enough of Music Matters, Oasis on Mae Luang Rd beckons. A small Thai club, Oasis is a typical Thai party zone where a band rattles through Thai favourites and random Western oddities before a DJ loses control of his beats, causing a frenzy on the dancefloor with techno remixes of Eminem and 50 Cent. Foreign faces are rare, but welcome.
Most clubs in Phuket close at 1 am or 2 am. After Oasis, it's time to really go into the heart of the city. Head over to Barzah in Phunpol. It's dark, dirty and obnoxiously loud, but it's a blast. Despite being in one of shadier parts of town, you won't find any trouble. Hip hop beats are the order of the night.
By the time Barzah has closed, your options are limited. Short of heading into Phunpol's underbelly, there is James Garden on Poonpol Rd Soi 1. You can order jugs of beer and toast to a successful day and night that most visitors to Phuket won't find themselves anywhere near.
And there you have it. Twenty-four hours in Phuket, a whole lot of fun and not a guidebook in sight. They said it couldn't be done.
The author of this article blogs about restaurants and nightlife in Phuket Town over at Phuket Vogue
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